Tuesday, April 28, 2009

easy weeknight dinner: cinnamon chicken



Remember that episode of Little House on the Prairie where Mrs. Oleson tries to snag Almanzo for Nellie by having her cook him dinner, but Nellie can't cook so Laura offers to help her, all the while plotting to sabotage the dinner because she's really in love with Almanzo but she's still a kid and he doesn't see her that way? Well, the dish Laura is supposed to cook for them is cinnamon chicken. But she "accidentally" uses cayenne instead of cinnamon and totally ruins the dinner set-up. Of course, it all backfires on Laura, who gets in big trouble when Caroline finds out, plus Nellie gets back at her by feeding her incorrect information for her teacher's exam. They end up having a huge catfight in the mud, then Almanzo takes Laura home to help her clean up (because, let's face it, he loved her from the very beginning), and Charles barges in and sees Laura in a robe and thinks Almanzo has taken advantage of her. It's actually a two-part episode, that's how awesome it all is. Anyway, what was my point? Oh yeah, cinnamon chicken. I always thought cinnamon chicken sounded tasty, but of course I have no idea what Laura's cinnamon chicken contained. So I just searched around for something that sounded tasty, and this was the result.



There really is nothing more to this recipe than some cinnamon and some ginger. But the best part is that you end up cooking your starch right in the same pan, which I always appreciate. You also use the same seasoning for the couscous, and the golden raisins are the perfect hint of sweetness to give this dish a bit of a Moroccan flair. I can imagine that if Laura did cook this chicken and Nellie passed it off as her own with Almanzo, history may have turned out a bit differently and the next generation of Wilder kids would have been really really blonde. Recipe after the jump:

CINNAMON CHICKEN WITH COUSCOUS AND GOLDEN RAISINS
Adapted from Epicurious.com

4 whole chicken legs (about 3 pounds)
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided
1 teaspoon ground ginger, divided
1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup chopped onion
3/4 cup golden raisins, or mixed chopped dried fruit (such as currants, apricots, and prunes)
1 14-ounce can low-salt chicken broth
1 cup couscous
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint, divided

Preheat oven to 375°F. Sprinkle chicken with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and 1/2 teaspoon ginger. Heat oil in large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces, skin side down, and cook until skin is brown, about 8 minutes. Turn chicken and transfer skillet to oven. Roast chicken until thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 175°F, about 15 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate; tent with foil.

Discard excess chicken drippings from the pan, leaving about 1 tbsp of fat. Add onion to drippings; sauté onion over medium-high heat until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add raisins and remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/2 teaspoon ginger; stir to coat. Add broth; bring to boil. Remove skillet from heat, stir in couscous and 1 teaspoon mint. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff couscous with a fork to separate and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Mound couscous on platter; place chicken atop couscous. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon mint and serve.

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Friday, April 24, 2009

sunset park food binge: chinese long beans



We're finally getting pockets of gorgeous weather here and there in NYC, and it is especially nice that these pockets tend to happen on the weekend. Last Saturday we had an amazing spring day and it was the perfect day to spend eating our way through Sunset Park, Brooklyn. We were taken on this food tour by the lovely Lofts twins, Greg and Steve, Sunset Park residents and champions. And - perfect for us - big time foodies. The food tour included Banh Mi, oyster cakes, curry fish balls, fried taro, chicken wings, spicy squid, hand-pulled noodles, donuts, cream buns, bubble tea, and plenty of grocery shopping in the numerous Asian markets along the way.

Sunset Park contains one of three Chinatowns in NYC. It's the smallest, but it's not small, and it has the advantage of being somewhat less insanely crowded than either the Manhattan or Flushing Chinatowns. Whenever I'm in any of the three Chinatowns, I go buckwild buying groceries. There are a lot of treats that I grew up on that I can only find in Chinatown - pork buns, sticky rice, Chinese broccoli, fresh water chestnuts, lotus root, steamed flower buns, Shanghai Noodles, the list goes on and on. I lugged a whole lotta groceries home on the subway that day. One of those items were these Chinese long beans.



Chinese long beans are pretty similar to string beans and can generally be used interchangeably. Their texture is a little less snappy than green beans, but I love how thin they are, and I think they have a distinctly different flavor. As with string beans, I prepare long beans in a super simple way because I mostly just want to enjoy their fresh flavor. Recipe after the jump:



GINGER-GARLIC CHINESE LONG BEANS

1 lb Chinese long beans, stem ends trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tbsp canola oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp minced fresh ginger
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine (or dry sherry)
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
2 tbsp water
1 tsp sugar
salt and pepper, to taste
2 scallions, chopped

Mix together the soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, water, and sugar and set aside. Heat a large saute pan over high heat. Add the canola oil to the hot pan and heat until shimmering. Add the garlic and ginger and saute for 30 seconds until fragrant, being careful not to burn it. Add the long beans and saute for a couple of minutes until beginning to soften. Add the liquid and toss to coat, when the liquids begin to boil, lower heat to a strong simmer and allow the liquids to reduce. Add salt and pepper to taste. Allow beans to simmer until tender-crisp, it should not take more than a few minutes. Add in the chopped scallions just before taking it off the heat, reserving a few tablespoons for garnish. Serve with steamed white rice.

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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

sunday supper: pomegranate-glazed cornish game hens



Sweeeeet. I love a chicken with a sweet, tangy, crisp skin. You really can't beat that. And you really can't beat how completely easy it is to achieve that. These little cornish game hens with a pomegranate-honey glaze have the zing of ginger and the mellowness of scallions for an Asian-inspired flavor.



Not to mention how juicy these little hens come out. The breast meat doesn't dry out at all, the leg meat is super succelent, and a little 1-pound bird is the perfect size for a hearty Sunday Supper. And all there is to it is a little brushing, and 1 hour of your time. Recipe after the jump:



POMEGRANATE-GLAZED CORNISH GAME HENS

2 rock cornish game hens (approx 1 to 1 1/2 pounds each)
1 tbsp canola oil
2 tbsp minced ginger
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 scallions, chopped
1/2 cup pure pomegranate juice (be sure this is not a juice blend)
1 1/2 tbsp honey
kosher salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rinse the hens and pat very dry with paper towels. Truss the birds, then season liberally with kosher salt, rubbing it into the skin. Place the birds in a roasting or baking pan and roast dry for 15 minutes.

While the birds are roasting, heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the oil and allow to heat. Add the ginger and garlic and saute until fragrant, being careful to not allow it to burn. Add the scallions and saute until softened. Add the pomegranate juice and the honey and stir until the honey is well dissolved. Lower the heat to a very gentle simmer.

After the hens have roasted for 15 minutes, lower the heat to 350. Brush the birds well with the pomegranate glaze. Continue to roast the birds, basting every 15 minutes, until they have cooked for 1 hour total.

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Friday, April 17, 2009

true fusion: kedgeree



A few years ago some Brits made me a interesting dinner that I'd never had before: Kedgeree. It was my kind of food. Rice and stuff, all mixed up in a vat. You know how I love vat food. But this had an interesting flavor and a curious heritage. Clearly it is a fusion of Indian and British flavors, but it's primary origin seems to be under question. Some say it comes from Scotland and was taken to India by troops during the British Raj, where it adopted it's Indian flavors. Others say it originated in India and was brought back to the UK by British soldiers where lentils were swapped out for fish and it transformed into a breakfast dish. Chicken and the egg I guess.



So nowadays, Kedgeree is all about smoked fish. Usually haddock, but I went with this gorgeous smoked trout. Because it's gorgeous.

Another important component of kedgeree is hard boiled egg. The first time I had it, it was chopped up and mixed in with that vat-food style I so love. But I guess many people just halve or quarter the eggs, and I guess it looks a little nicer that way. Otherwise this dish just looked like a pile of rice. I also used brown basmati rice instead of white because it's what I had. This did take quite a bit longer to cook as a result, but the nutty flavor of the rice was really fantastic. And finally, I threw in about a cup of freshly shelled peas because it needed something green, and I figured peas are pretty British. Recipe after the jump:



KEDGEREE

2 tbsp ghee
1 small onion, finely diced
1 1/2 cups brown basmati rice
1 1/2 tbsp curry powder
1 tsp smoked paprika
3 cup vegetable or chicken stock, or water
salt and pepper, to taste
6-8 ounces smoked trout
1 cup fresh shelled peas (or frozen)
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
4 eggs

In a medium pan, heat the ghee on medium heat until ripply. Add the onion and sweat for about 5 minutes. Add the rice, curry powder, and paprika and saute until the rice is coated with oil. Add the stock or water, bring to a strong boil, then lower to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 35-40 minutes until water is absorbed and rice is tender.

While the rice is cooking, place the eggs in a small pot with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then cover, turn off the heat, and allow to sit undisturbed for 7 minutes. Remove the eggs to a bowl of cold water and peel immediately. Set the eggs aside until the rice is done.

When the rice has about 5 minutes left to cook, stir in the peas. Once the rice is fully cooked, flake the smoked trout and stir into the rice to heat through. Add the parsley. Serve with the eggs quartered, or chop the eggs and mix in.

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Wednesday, April 15, 2009

recipe for passover: mama j-cat's matzo lasagna



I know that Passover is just about over, but I'm pretty sure it's impossible to not have some leftover matzo. So why not do something fun and strange with it? This Matzo Lasagna is a recipe from J-Cat's mom. I first had it a couple of years ago at his sister's seder, and I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it. So I decided to get the recipe and make it for J-Cat, who is a sucker for nostalgic foods that he ate growing up. The secret ingredient that really makes this lasagna sing is wine. The recipe doesn't specify what kind of wine, but I thought to myself that back in the day when it was probably written, the only kind of kosher for Passover wine most people could get their hands on was Manischewitz, that classic, super sweet concord grape wine. These days there are many more choices of kosher wines with much subtler flavors, so I went with a Riesling, which has a fruity sweetness that approximates Manischewitz without knocking you over the head with it. Recipe after the jump:



MAMA J-CAT'S PASSOVER MATZO LASAGNA
NOTE: This recipe makes a giant pan appropriate for a large seder. I halved the recipe for the two of us and had plenty left over for the next day.

6 large onions, chopped
6 to 8 matzohs
3 to 4 lbs chopped meat
2 to 3 can tomato mushroom sauce
6 eggs
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup wine
garlic, oregano and parsley to taste
1/2 cup oil

Saute the onions in oil until tender. Add meat and cook until red color of the meat disappears. Add sauce, salt, pepper,garlic, oregano, and parsley to taste.

In separate bowl beat the eggs and wine. Grease foil Lasagna pan. Dip matzoh in egg wine mixture and line the pan. Add 1/3 of the meat mixture. Place matzah dipped in wine on top. Repeat layers ending with matzah on top. Pour remaing egg wine mixture over top. Cover with foil and bake in preheated 375 degree oven for 1/2 hour.

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Monday, April 13, 2009

pain francais



And I'm back. If anyone even noticed I was gone. Things were a little quiet on *the passionfruit* last week, due in part to the computer being out for repairs. But alas, he is back and ready to gobble up endless food photos. There is, however, another reason I have been a little scarce on here. I haven't been cooking. Shhhh. I mean, I've been cooking here and there, but nothing much of interest. Basically, J-Cat and I had use of a car two weekends in a row, and that resulted in driving all over the city and eating everything that we're normally too lazy to drag our asses out to on the subway. The list includes Uighur food in Brighton Beach, Uzbek food in Rego Park, Ukrainian food also in Brighton Beach, Italian in Tudor City, Banh Mi in our own neighborhood, and a failed attempt at IHOP in Jackson Heights. Yeah, we tried to go to IHOP. Give me a break, we never get crap like that in the city, as evidenced by the enormously huge line trying to get a table on a Saturday morning.

Anyway, yesterday was J-Cat's birthday(yay!). We celebrated on Saturday with a trip to the famous Mandolin Bros. shop in Staten Island for his brand new Collings MT A-Style Mandolin. He's in heaven. For dinner that night, we went to the fantastic Convivio in Tudor City. Four courses for $59, and some of the best pasta I have ever had. This place is a true gem. We struck out yesterday by going to a supposed bluegrass brunch at Superfine in Dumbo. It was both not bluegrass music and not super fine. But he was happy nonetheless because our Convivio dinner more than made up for it. In fact, all of our awesome food adventures over the last couple of weeks were more than enough to satisfy us for a while. At least, until we buy a car of our own, which we are now determined to do because it is just too much fun motoring around to the far corners of the city for the best food it has to offer.

So I don't have any good recipe for you today. I have a pretty picture of some delicious french toast I made a while back, but it's not really a recipe. It's just some great brioche from Amy's bread, dipped in an egg and cream mixture. Can't beat that. It prompted J-Cat to ask if they will have french toast in Paris, which, actually, I don't know the answer to, but am excitedly looking forward to finding out.

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Tuesday, April 07, 2009

recipe for passover: cilantro-mint quinoa with cashews



Did you know that quinoa is kosher for Passover? Quinoa, though treated like a grain, is actually a seed, and thus not considered kitniyot. I know some people who are pretty excited to know this. I mean, I actually love matzo, but I can see how it gets old. So if you're looking for a new side dish for your Pesach table, try a quinoa pilaf. My pilaf has a bit of a middle eastern flair, spiked with cilantro and mint and topped with toasted cashews. Recipe after the jump:

CILANTRO-MINT QUINOA WITH CASHEWS

1 cup quinoa
3 cups water or chicken or vegetable broth
1 tsp salt
1 tsp olive oil
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup chopped mint
1/3 cup toasted cashews (toast on a dry pan until fragrant and brown)

Place the quinoa in a strainer and rinse with cold water until the water runs clear.

Bring the water or broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the salt and the quinoa. Bring back to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer 15 minutes, or until the quinoa is tender and translucent, and each grain displays a little thread. Drain and return to the pan. Cover the pan with a clean dish towel, replace the lid and allow to sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork to separate. Drizzle the olive oil over the quinoa, then add the chopped herbs and cashews. Toss to mix well and taste for season. Season with additional salt to taste.

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easy weeknight dinner: asparagus, leek, and grueyere quiche



Eggs + Pie = Delicious. I'm officially protesting the recent popularity of the "crustless quiche". There are two major reasons that the idea offends me: 1. It's an oxymoron. If there is no crust, it is not a quiche. Perhaps it is a frittata. 2. The crust is the best part. No crust means that I am no longer half as interested.



I have tried to figure out why one would want to make a crustless quiche, and I'm guessing there are two major motivations: 1. People believe crust is a pain to make, or 2. Crust is not good for you. To that I say, get over it. Crust is pretty simple, but if you really don't want to bother, just buy a pre-made crust. It's still better than no crust. And as for it's relative unhealthiness, you can just pack your quiche full of healthy vegetables to counteract it. And as a wise friend just told me, if you drink tea after you eat, it doesn't count. Recipe after the jump:

ASPARAGUS, LEEK, AND GRUYERE QUICHE

1 tbsp butter
1 large leek, cut in quarters lengthwise, rinsed thoroughly, and thinly sliced
1 shallot, minced
1 bunch asparagus, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
4 large eggs
1/2 cup milk
salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
1 pie crust for a 9"-inch single crust pie, or storebought crust

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Saute the shallot and leeks in the butter until just softened. Add the asparagus and saute until bright green and tender, about 6-7 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Season with salt and pepper.

Place pie crust on a baking sheet. Spread the vegetables on the bottom of the crust, then top with the cheese. Pour in the egg mixture evenly. Bake in the preheated oven for 50-60 minutes until the center is just set, rotating once during baking. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before serving.

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Friday, April 03, 2009

intoxicating honey wheat bread



There is great danger in baking my own bread. Namely, that I will eat an entire loaf of bread. No matter how great a loaf I can get at the numerous fantastic bakeries in this city, for some reason even the simplest loaf baked at home will beat it. I guess there is just no comparing a loaf of bread straight out the oven, even to a loaf baked mere hours before.



This honey wheat loaf is bread baking at it's most basic and simple, and makes me wonder why I ever thought that baking bread was remotely complicated. The only issue that I had was my loaf pan. For some freakish reason, I have a 9.5" loaf pan, and most recipes I've come across are for 8" loaf pans. So I always end up with bread that looks a little flat and depressing, even if it rises very well. I know it doesn't really make a difference, but I think I have to get an 8" pan to satisfy my cooking OCD. Recipe after the jump:



HONEY WHEAT BREAD

1 package active dry yeast
1 cup warm water (110F)
3 tbsp honey
1 tbsp butter, melted
1 cup bread flour (if you don't have bread flour, AP is fine)
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 tbsp salt

In a large bowl, stir together yeast, warm water, and honey. Let stand for 5 minutes, until foamy. Stir in melted butter, flours, and salt. You may need to add as much as 1/2 cup additional flour if your dough is too sticky, otherwise stir until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and knead into a smooth ball, about 2 minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and let rise until doubled, 1-1 1/2 hours.

Remove dough again to a lightly floured surface. Gently deflate dough. Press the dough into a large rectangle, then fold over in thirds like a letter. Starting at one of the open ends (not a crease end), roll the dough into a cylinder and use the side of your palm to seal the edges. Place seam-side down in a greased loaf pan, cover with the kitchen towel, and let dough rise until doubled, 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400F.

Bake for 25 minutes at 400F, until the bottom sounds hollow when tapped.
Let loaf cool before slicing. Makes one loaf.

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Wednesday, April 01, 2009

bacon bacon bacon bacon bacon!!!



So maybe this doesn't look like much. It looks like dark, shiny bacon. But picture this bacon being made during a cooking show, and a crew of a dozen people sitting at the edges of their seats just waiting to lunge as soon as we hear "cut!". Because this particular bacon is - simply put - magical. And when you find out how easy it is to make it, you'll really believe in magic.

This is the most talked about, most eaten, most craved, and probably most crew-cooked recipe of the whole run of our newest show 5 Ingredient Fix, featuring our newest star Claire Robinson, and premiering this Saturday, April 4, at 9:30 AM. DON'T MISS IT. Srsly.

And as a bonus, check out the show page for some behind the scenes photos shot by yours truly, plus watch the FN Dish Behind the Scenes videos and see me laughing like a giant doofus. Twice.

CLAIRE'S MAPLE CANDIED BACON

1 lb thick cut bacon
1/2 cup grade B maple syrup
1 tsp dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil, then set a baking rack (nonstick if you have it) into the pan. Lay the bacon strips onto the rack. In a small bowl, mix together the maple syrup and dijon mustard, then brush thickly onto the bacon. Bacon for 12 minutes, then flip the strips and brush the glaze onto the other side. Bake for another 10 minutes or until they're the crispness that you like. I like them very crisp, and I let them rest a few minutes when they're out of the oven to harden slightly.

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Monday, March 30, 2009

totless hot dish



I have no idea what a "hot dish" is. I assumed it was just, well, a hot dish. As opposed to a cold one. I guess growing up in the household that I did means that some of the really classic American foods are actually foreign foods to me. I've recently become somewhat fascinated with the casserole, partially because J-Cat has a certain fondness for stuff mixed with cream of mushroom soup and baked. I'd never had any of it before. Seriously. I've never had that green bean casserole with the crunchy onions. Ever.

So it was strange timing that I heard not once, but at least half a dozen times in recent weeks of this mystical concoction called the Tater Tot Casserole. Could it be? It sounded both magically delicious and sickening all at the same time. What exactly is it? I was surprised to find that it was made with turkey. I don't know why I was surprised, I just was. Anyway, it was some kind of mixture of turkey meat, cream of something soup, veggies, etc., topped, of course, with frozen tater tots. And I'll tell you, the idea of this dish haunted me for weeks. It sounded scary, yet, I was inexplicably drawn to it. Tater tots! How could that be bad?!

Well, in the least, it sounded pretty bad for you. So I was happily surprised to stumble on this recipe from The Kitchen Sink, which took the classic casserole of her Minnesotan youth and reimagined it as a completely fresh, fairly healthier version. It also informed me that they call these things "hot dish" out there. Who knew? (Probably a lot of people knew).



The result? YUM. Granted, I should probably make the classic to know what this is inspired by, but as a dish unto itself, it was extremely tasty and far less guilt-inducing than it could have been. We gobbled it up heartily. Recipe after the jump:

TATER TOT(LESS) HOT DISH
From The Kitchen Sink

2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, divided
4 medium potatoes, scrubbed and diced (1/4-inch dice)
kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper
1 pound ground turkey (light or dark, or a mixture of the two)
1 1/2 cups leeks, trimmed and sliced thinly into half-moons
1 cup celery, sliced thinly into half-moons
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon herbs de Provence
2 cups chicken stock
2/3 cup milk
1/3 cup flour
1/4 cup finely shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Butter a large baking dish (a gratin dish or 9×13-inch pan) and set aside.

Toss diced potatoes in 1 tablespoon of the oil and some salt and pepper, spread on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes, turning halfway through. Reduce the oven heat to 350.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven. Add the ground turkey, a small pinch of salt and pepper, and cook until the turkey is nearly cooked through. Add the leeks, celery, garlic, celery seed, herbs de Provence and a pinch of salt and pepper; saute for several minutes until softened.

Add 1/2 cup chicken stock to the pan. Place the flour in a small bowl, and whisk in the milk. Add milk mixture to pan, stirring constantly. Gradually add remaining chicken stock; cook 8 minutes or until mixture thickens.

Pour the turkey mixture into the buttered dish. Top with the roasted potatoes and grated parmesan. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes, until the top is golden brown.

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Thursday, March 26, 2009

easy weeknight dinner: baked sea scallops



Baking has become my favorite way to prepare seafood. Some years ago, I discovered Marcella Hazan's various baked fish recipes and wondered to myself why I ever bothered doing this any other way. Shoving your seafood in the oven in a lovely sea of butter or oil or whatever is tasty frees you up to concentrate on more important matters, like getting dessert ready.



So this simple recipe for baked sea scallops is scampi-inspired, easy, delicious, fairly healthy, and quick. Serve over some whole wheat orzo, rice, or with a simple salad. Recipe after the jump:

GARLICKY BAKED SEA SCALLOPS

1 lb large dry sea scallops, patted dry with paper towels
4 tablespoons butter, melted
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, minced
3 pinches ground nutmeg
salt and pepper to taste
1/3 cup bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup chopped parsley
lemon wedges for garnish

Preheat oven to 425. Place scallops, melted butter, garlic, and shallots in a bowl. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stir gently to combine. Transfer to a casserole dish. In a separate bowl, combine bread crumbs and olive oil. Sprinkle on top of scallops. Bake in preheated oven until crumbs are brown and scallops are done, about 11 to 14 minutes. Top with parsley, and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

fresh baked clouds



I haven't had angel food cake in years and years. Because, truth be told, I never liked it. This may be because the only kind I've ever had is the store bought kind. I found them cloyingly sweet and not terribly interesting. So why did I bake one? Well, I always want to be fair when it comes to food opinions. It doesn't seem right that I should judge a cake based only on having sampled an inferior version. I figured if I was going to make an honest judgment, I should taste one of these guys fresh baked.



And really, angel food cakes have a lot going for them. They are virtually fat-free, but not in some freaky way, it's just the way they are. They are very easy to make. They go with just about anything. And in the end, you end up with a dozen egg yolks left over to find something to make with, and that really shouldn't be too hard.



So, the verdict? It's a win. It's true, it was not fair to assume that I knew anything about an angel food cake's potential until I tasted a fresh one. It is truly like eating a delicious, sweet cloud. The texture is sort of crazy, yet addictive. I just ate mine with some fresh raspberries, but if I had had any cream around, that would have been a big win. Recipe after the jump:

ANGEL FOOD CAKE
From Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook

1 1/2 cups egg whites, room temperature (about 12 large eggs worth)
1 tbsp warm water
1 1/2 cups superfine sugar, separated
1 cup cake flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp cream of tartar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the rack set in the middle. Sift together the flour and 3/4 cup of sugar, then set aside. With an electric mixer, beat together the egg whites and warm water on low until starting to foam. Add the salt, cream of tartar, and vanilla and beat on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. With mixer running, gradually add remaining 3/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time. Raise speed to high, and beat until peaks are stiff and glossy (but not dry), about 2 minutes more.

Sift flour mixture over egg-white mixture in six parts, gently folding in each addition with a rubber spatula.

Gently pour batter into a 10-inch ungreased tube pan. Run a knife through the batter to release any air bubbles, and smooth with an offset spatula. Bake until cake is golden brown and springs back when touched, 35 to 40 minutes.

Invert pan on a wire rack, and let cake cool about 1 hour. Carefully run a paring knife around side of cake to loosen, then unmold onto the wire rack.

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Saturday, March 21, 2009

happy national corndog day!

Oh, what a glorious day. A celebration of processed meat, nitrates, cornmeal and sticks. It is an oft underrated gustatory delight, severely underrepresented in this region of the county. For those of you in our neck of the woods, there is a free corndog party at the bar next door. HOMEMADE CORNDOGS, three different types of batter. Can you resist? I think not.

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Friday, March 20, 2009

five ingredients or maybe one more: potato leek soup



Hey, I can do five ingredients or less, too. Take this delicious, creamy, hearty potato leek soup. Potatoes, leeks, shallots, butter, chicken stock, cream...damn. That's six. Of course, you could leave out the cream and not only meet the 5 ingredient requirement, but also feel a little bit better about eating giant troughs of this soup. I put it in because I'm weak, and it's goooood.

This is also an exceedingly simple little meal, impressive as a starter but filling enough for a lunch with a hunk of crusty bread. If you are serving it to company, you can even make it hours ahead of time, serve it cold, and call it vichyssoise. That should impress them. Recipe after the jump:

SIMPLE POTATO LEEK SOUP

3 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed well and chopped
2 shallots, thinly sliced
2 lbs medium wax potatoes, such as Yukon gold, peeled and diced
2 tbsp butter
4 cups chicken stock, or vegetable stock
1/2 cup heavy cream, or more to taste
salt and pepper, to taste

In a large stockpot, melt butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and shallots and saute until translucent. Add the potatoes and toss to combine. Pour of the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until potatoes are very tender, about 20 minutes depending on the size of your dice. Using an immersion mixer, blend the soup to an even creamy consistency. Add the cream and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Wednesday, March 18, 2009

introducing claire! well, her food anyway



So remember last week when I wrote about how indulgent my days on set were? Well here is a good example of just what kind of indulgence was going on. This delicious Duck Breast with Citrus Port Cherry Sauce is the creation of our newest star, the lovely Claire Robinson. Claire is hosting a new show called 5 Ingredient Fix, premiering on Saturday April 4 at 9:30 AM. I have no qualms about plugging the heck out of this show, because I LOVE CLAIRE. And, I love her food. Yes, this gorgeous duck breast has only five ingredients. Total. Seriously.



On top of all that goodness, I ended up with almost 8 ounces of duck fat stored away, just waiting to roast some potatoes. Hells yeah.



Crispy and juicy and rich meat. Sweet and tart and layered sauce. How can you go wrong? This is just one of Claire's recipes that I've made so far, and I'll be posting more in the days to come. Recipe after the jump:



CLAIRE ROBINSON'S DUCK BREAST WITH CITRUS PORT CHERRY SAUCE

2 whole duck breasts, separated into 4 breast halves
1 shallot, minced
½ cup pitted cherries (frozen defrosted are fine)
¼ cup ruby port wine
1 tsp orange zest
½ cup fresh orange juice

Score the duck skin and fat in a diamond pattern, then season with salt and pepper. Please skin side down in a large hot skillet and sear until golden brown over medium heat. Flip and sear the other side 3 minutes. Transfer duck to a baking dish and place in a preheated 400 degree oven for 12 minutes.

Drain the excess fat off of the skillet and reserve. Add shallots to pan and sauté until translucent. Add the orange juice, port, zest and cherries. Scrape the fond from the skillet. Allow sauce to come to a boil, then lower to a simmer until reduced, about 5 minutes. Serve the duck breast thinly sliced with the sauce spooned over the top.

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Monday, March 16, 2009

carbo load: rosemary bread



One of the things I love about bread is that it is so incredibly versatile. Take a basic bread recipe and add whatever you like and it will transform into something else entirely. I had a bunch of beautiful rosemary that I wanted to use this weekend, and it popped into my head that I would love a nice simple rosemary bread to dip into some of the good Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.



I also love how the aroma intoxicates the air. Yeast is one of my favorite perfumes. This recipe really couldn't be easier. It is a bread making basic, with minimal work and maximal satisfaction.



The crust is very soft for this one, so if you prefer it a little crispy, try brushing with an egg wash at the end, instead of the olive oil. It is also great toasted on the second day. Recipe after the jump:



ROSEMARY BREAD

1 tablespoon yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup warm water
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt, plus additional for sprinkling
4 tablespoons rosemary, finely chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, separated

Combine yeast, sugar, and warm water in a large mixing bowl and allow to rest until foamy. Add in 1 TBSP olive oil, salt, and 2 cups of flour. Stir to combine, then add 3 TBSP of the rosemary. Knead for about 10 minutes by hand until smooth and elastic, adding up to 1/2 cup additional flour if the dough is too sticky. Shape dough into a ball and place into an oiled bowl, turning to coat. Cover with a towel and allow to rise in a warm place for 1 hour, until doubled in size.

Punch down dough, then separate in half. Shape each half into a small football shaped loaf and place on a greased baking sheet. Sprinkle the top with the remaining rosemary. Cover with the towel and allow to rise another 1 hour, until doubled.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake loaves for 20-25 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven and brush with remaining one tbsp of olive oil, then lightly sprinkle with salt. Allow to cool before slicing.

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Saturday, March 14, 2009

little old me?

Leah says she wants to know six random things about me. Other than the fact that I'm obsessed with food? This is pressure, I feel like I have to come up with six somewhat obscure things that people don't already know about me. But I'm an open book!

But before I start, I have to tag six other people to tell us six random things about themselves. I'm not sure six people read this blog...but I'll go with:

Beth & Rick

Shari
Aaron
Tom
Josef

1. I rarely drink alcohol. It's not because I don't like it, it's because I have severe Asian curse and it's both extremely uncomfortable to drink, and extremely embarrassing. Just a small amount makes me turn bright red from head to toe, instantly causes congestion in both my head and chest, makes me feel uncomfortably warm, and kills my taste buds and appetite. I can rarely drink to the point of fun drunk because I feel bad long before I can get there. As a result, I've only gotten stomach sick from drinking twice in my life - once at the Russian Vodka Room, and once at Del Posto. At least I do it up right when I do it. Feel sorry for me. Seriously.

2. It is not unusual for me to go an entire winter weekend without leaving the house.

3. I have known J-Cat for 17 years. We dated for about 4 months in high school. Neither of us, however, remembers exactly how we met, or how we broke up (except that it was his fault). This time around, we remember everything.

4. I love getting my hair done or messed with or generally just played with, yet I hardly ever get around to getting a haircut. The one I got a couple of weeks ago was the first one I had in over 9 months, and it showed.

5. I still hate practicing violin, so watching J-Cat practice mandolin every day makes me feel really guilty.

6. I much prefer shopping on the internet than in person. Actually, I hate shopping for pretty much anything in person.

And a bonus fact: that list of six things took me far too long to come up with.

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Thursday, March 12, 2009

where have i been?

It was like a perfect storm of circumstances preventing me from cooking this week. One reason was the endless delicious, filling, utterly unhealthy foods that I was constantly surrounded by on the set of a brand new show, which I will be telling you all about shortly. I was coming home every evening too overindulged to cook actual meals. Then a weekend trip up to Flushing Chinatown to binge at the Roosevelt Mall Food Court ended up backfiring when I woke up Sunday morning - my cooking day - sick as a dog. There really is nothing more cruel for an obsessive foodie to cope with than food poisoning. Back to set on Monday for more food food food, and a magical Fette Sau BBQ feast for last night's wrap party. Today, it's back to the regular routine, and day one of my attempt to at least somewhat cleanse myself from a week of constant gluttony and/or illness.



So my first cleansing meal was found in last week's NY Times dining section, part of Martha Rose Shulman's Recipes for Health series. This Buckwheat Pasta with Kale was sort of a head scratcher when I first read it. Soba noodles, kale, leeks...and cheese? It didn't seem to make complete sense to me, unless you tell yourself to think of the soba as pasta, and not as an Asian noodle. What's the difference, after all? And I was pleasantly surprised by this dish. The real star for me was actually the leeks, sauteed until buttery and sweet, and a lovely pair to the fresh, mild kale. The parmesan cheese complemented the sweet leeks wonderfully. I would say, however, that the choice of fontina cheese threw me off a bit. I think that a cheese as strong as fontina didn't quite work for this dish, overpowering the sweetness of the leeks and the nuttiness of the soba. For my - ahem - second bowlful, I left out the fontina and went with a touch more parmesan, and found that balance much more suitable. Recipe after the jump:



BUCKWHEAT PASTA WITH KALE
From Martha Rose Shulman's Recipes for Health series

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (or omit butter and use 2 tablespoons olive oil)
2 large leeks, white and light green parts only, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced and cleaned
4 fresh sage leaves, cut in thin slivers
Salt, preferably kosher salt, to taste
3/4 pound kale, stemmed, washed thoroughly, and cut crosswise in strips
Freshly ground pepper
2 ounces Parmesan, grated (1/2 cup)
2 ounces fontina or Gruyère cheese, cut in 1/4 inch dice
3/4 pound buckwheat pasta (pizzoccheri or soba) or whole wheat fettuccine

1. Begin heating a large pot of water. Meanwhile, heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and sage, and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to soften, about three minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and fresh pepper, and continue to cook, stirring often, until the leeks are tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. When the water comes to a boil, add a generous spoonful of salt and the kale. Boil for four minutes, until tender but still bright. Using a slotted spoon or a skimmer, transfer to the pan with the leeks and stir together. Keep warm over low heat.

3. Bring the water back to a boil, and add the pasta. Cook al dente (soba will cook quickly, usually in under five minutes, while pizzoccheri and whole wheat fettuccine will take longer). When the pasta is al dente, add 1/2 cup of the cooking water to the pan with the kale and leeks, then drain the pasta and toss in the pan or in a warm pasta bowl with the leeks, kale and the cheeses. Serve at once.

Yield: Serves four to six

Advance preparation: You can make the dish through step 2 several hours ahead. Remove from the heat, then reheat when you cook the pasta.

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Friday, March 06, 2009

take-out takedown: gai pad krapow



One of my favorite lazy night take-out meals is the classic Thai dish Gai Pad Krapow, a chicken and basil stir-fry. My one complaint about my neighborhood Thai restaurants, however, is that this dish always seems to be swimming in grease. It doesn't stop us from eating it, but I was pretty thrilled to stumble upon a recipe for the dish recently on Serious Eats. It was far simpler than I even realized, and made at home I could completely control how greasy it got. Even better, the Serious Eats version threw in some extra added green with the string beans, so it could truly become a one-pan meal.



J-Cat exclaimed that it tasted really authentic to him, then got a mouthful of chili pepper and didn't say anything else for a while. Recipe after the jump:

GAI PAD KRAPOW
Adapted from Serious Eats

Ideally, this dish should be made with holy basil, which is not to be confused with sweet basil or even the purple-stemmed Thai basil. You'll know it by its scalloped edges and clove-like aroma, but you may have a hard time tracking it down. Regular sweet basil tastes just as good in this dish, if not quite so "authentic."

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Chilis, finely chopped (use 2-3 serrano peppers for a very mild heat; 2-3 bird's eye chilis for a medium heat)
1 large shallot, finely sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 pound green beans, trimmed, chopped in 1-inch lengths
1 pound ground chicken
4 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 bunch basil, leaves only

To serve:
Boiled rice
Fried eggs, 1 per person (optional)
Nam pla prik (recipe follows) or fresh lime wedges
Procedure

1. Heat the oil over high heat in a wok or large frying pan. When you can see waves forming in the hot oil, add the chilis, shallots, and garlic and stir-fry until golden, about 30 seconds.

2. Add the green beans and stir-fry until cooked but still crunchy, 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Add the ground chicken, using a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the meat into small pieces. Stir-fry until chicken is cooked through.

4. Add the fish sauce and sugar to the pan, and stir to distribute. Taste, and add more fish sauce or sugar if desired.

5. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the basil leaves and stir-fry until completely wilted. Remove from heat.

6. Serve with boiled rice, fried egg (optional), and nam pla prik or lime wedges.

NAM PLA PRIK (Chili Fish Sauce)

Ingredients

Fish sauce
Fresh lime juice
Chilis, finely chopped
Shallots, finely sliced
Procedure

Mix fish sauce and lime juice to taste (a typical ratio is 3-4 parts fish sauce to 1 part lime juice) and pour over chilis and shallots. Consume immediately, or pour into a clean jar and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

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